ARCHIVIO

The Fashion Issue

The Fashion Issue

Abstract

Here begins the third cycle of ARCHIVIO: four thematic issues, each edited by a Guest Editor specialized in the field in order to have an expert eye to open the doors of the archives and show you where to look in these vast worlds.
The first, ARCHIVIO N°9, is dedicated to Fashion, with Stefano Tonchi—curator and journalist in the field of fashion—as Guest Editor-in-Chief, joined by Marco Pecorari—Associate Dean for Academic Affairs and Program Director of the MA in Fashion Studies at Parsons Paris. Editorial direction is by Daniela Hamaui, while the art direction is by Alessandro Gori. For our cover, we asked artist Francesco Vezzoli to create a portfolio that would put fashion archives in conversation with Pop Culture.
ARCHIVIO N°9, offers a mapping of the fashion archives international landscape at this moment in time and an overview of the many typologies and studies happening in the world we live in, divided in three sections: ‘Public & Institutional’, ‘Brands & Strategies’, ‘Private & Personal’. It also includes a special poster: an (in)complete mapping of the countless fashion archives in Italy. A research by Promemoria, ARCHIVIO’s publisher, visually processed by Accurat. The result is a map that is also a small work of art.

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“Fashion archives are always changing, creating new narratives and relationships, always moving. They are living archives.”

“Fashion archives are always changing, creating new narratives and relationships, always moving. They are living archives.”

Stefano Tonchi,
Guest Editor-in-Chief

Glimpse of the Month

By Francesco Pastore

Elsa Schiaparelli surrounded herself with the greatest visionaries, including architects and interior designers like Alberto Giacometti and Jean-Michel Frank who both worked with Elsa to bring her surreal perspective to life in her boutiques and salons. In her otherworldly collaborations with artists, Elsa was able to revolutionize the boutique experience, making her displays a world of their own. In one instance, she commissioned Frank to create a life-size gold bamboo cage to hold perfumes and was installed as the shopping window display for the publicz to see. While other houses hid the inner workings of their boutiques, Elsa flourishing sets sat in the windows of the haute couture house, inviting passerby to gaze into the world of 21, Place Vendôme.

Francesco Pastore is Head of Heritage and cultural projects at Maison Schiaparelli

Headquarters of the Schiaparelli boutique at 21 place Vendome, Paris. Detail of the library with leather goods
 inspired by the bamboo cage designed by 
JMF for Schiaparelli in 1937, ©Tom de Peyret for Schiaparelli
Headquarters of the Schiaparelli boutique at 21 place Vendome, Paris. Detail of the library with leather goods inspired by the bamboo cage designed by JMF for Schiaparelli in 1937, ©Tom de Peyret for Schiaparelli
Interior of the ground floor of the Schiaparelli boutique in Paris, 1935. Detail of the light column designed by artist Alberto Giacometti for Schiaparelli in 1935, Courtesy Maison Schiaparelli
Interior of the ground floor of the Schiaparelli boutique in Paris, 1935. Detail of the light column designed by artist Alberto Giacometti for Schiaparelli in 1935, Courtesy Maison Schiaparelli
Presentation of the Haute Couture collection in the salons of Maison Schiaparelli, Paris. Circa 1951. 
Detail of the ashtray designed by JMF for Schiaparelli in 1935
Presentation of the Haute Couture collection in the salons of Maison Schiaparelli, Paris. Circa 1951. Detail of the ashtray designed by JMF for Schiaparelli in 1935
Interior View of the Schiaparelli boutique at 21 place Vendome, Paris, circa 1945. Detail of the bamboo cage 
designed by JMF for Schiaparelli in 1937, 
Courtesy Maison Schiaparelli
Interior View of the Schiaparelli boutique at 21 place Vendome, Paris, circa 1945. Detail of the bamboo cage designed by JMF for Schiaparelli in 1937, Courtesy Maison Schiaparelli
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